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As one of Austin’s top foodies, I finally checked off one of my bucket-list trips: Rome and Florence. This guide will focus on the Rome portion of our journey — though if you’re interested, I’ll also have a separate guide for Florence. I traveled with my 7-month-old baby, my husband, and two dear friends. It was definitely a learning curve experiencing international travel with a baby for the first time (I’ll cover that in a separate post!), but this guide will focus on our Rome itinerary — where we ate, what was worth it, what to skip, and some of the must-do activities along with how to access them.
Here is a map of all the spots we visited!
Getting There
Austin doesn’t have a direct flight to Rome, so we flew Lufthansa with a layover in Frankfurt. The flight from Austin to Frankfurt took about 11 hours, followed by a short 1.5-hour layover before our final 1.5-hour flight to Rome.
For this trip, we decided to travel with carry-ons only — a tip our friends had recommended. That worked out well for them, but with a baby in tow, I’d honestly suggest checking at least one bag. On connecting flights in Europe, it’s common to walk up and down stairs to board planes and take shuttle buses between gates, which can make juggling multiple carry-ons pretty challenging. If that sounds like too much, save yourself the stress and check a bag.
Yes, Rome is famous for its cobblestones, but it’s still manageable with a stroller and wheeled luggage. From Fiumicino Airport to the Centro Storico (where we stayed) is about a 45-minute drive. Taxis are readily available at the airport, reasonably priced, and lined up right outside for convenience.
Cultural Tips & Recommendations
First off, greetings go a long way in Rome. Always say hello when you enter a store, restaurant, or café. A simple “buongiorno” (good morning) can make all the difference. On the occasions I forgot to greet someone, I definitely noticed a chillier reception — so be mindful and polite when visiting another country.
It’s also helpful to learn a few key phrases:
- Buongiorno — good morning (used until about lunchtime)
- Buonasera — good afternoon or evening
- Ciao — casual hello or goodbye
- Scusi — excuse me
- Grazie — thank you
These small efforts are always appreciated and show respect for the local culture.
When it comes to money, you’ll want to have some euros on hand. I only recommend withdrawing cash if you plan to shop at small markets or purchase from local artists. Most restaurants, museums, and even taxis in Rome accept credit cards without issue, but smaller vendors often prefer cash.
Be aware of Rome’s dining culture, too — it’s very different from the U.S. Locals typically don’t eat lunch before noon. Breakfast is light and usually consists of pastries like maritozzi or sfogliatelle with a coffee. Lunch usually runs from 12:00 to 2:00 p.m., and it’s meant to be savored. Expect to spend two to three hours enjoying your meal, especially at a sit-down trattoria or osteria. Plan your sightseeing schedule accordingly so you’re not rushing through your food.
Then comes my favorite time of day: aperitivo time — the Italian version of happy hour. Between about 4:00 and 8:00 p.m., many restaurants and bars offer drinks like Aperol spritzes along with small snacks. Even though I don’t drink, I loved this tradition — it’s a wonderful way to relax, people-watch, and nibble on some light bites before dinner.
Dinner in Rome typically starts after 8:00 p.m. While some tourist-friendly restaurants open earlier (around 7:00), most locals dine later. So, expect to adjust your schedule a bit — mornings can start slow, and meals tend to stretch long into the evening. Don’t be surprised if you show up at a restaurant before its dinner service and find the doors still closed!
Pick Pockets - Be very careful in crowded market areas or in front of tourist sites like the Trevi fountain. Carry a fanny pack close to your chest!
Getting Around Rome
The main mode of transportation in Rome is walking. I stayed in the Centro Storico (the central historical area), which is one of the most touristy parts of the city — but also one of the most convenient for exploring on foot. You can use bus as well!
Driving in Rome isn’t really feasible for visitors. Many streets are ZTL zones (limited traffic areas) that restrict access to residents or authorized vehicles only, and fines for entering them can be steep. Unless you’re planning day trips outside the city, I highly recommend staying somewhere central and walking as much as possible.
If you need transportation, there are plenty of taxi stands throughout the city where you can easily hail a cab, or you can download one of the local taxi apps (such as Free Now or ItTaxi) to request a ride. While Uber technically exists in Rome, it’s not very reliable — taxis are usually the better choice.
Where We Stayed
Here’s the Airbnb we chose to stay at. Although hotels in Rome were pricier than usual during our visit, we ultimately went with an Airbnb because it made more sense for traveling with a baby — especially when it came to storing breast milk and having extra space for all the essentials.
We absolutely loved our Airbnb. It was in a very convenient location, close to many of the main attractions, and being a single-story unit made it much easier to manage our luggage and stroller. It ended up being the perfect home base for our stay in Rome.
We were a short walk from the Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and more!
We stayed for 4 full days in Rome!
Without time to waste - Here are the spots we tried and approved of!
Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina
This spot came highly recommended by Italians, my followers, and tons of travel blogs. I’ll admit, I was a little skeptical at first because I assumed it might be too touristy — but it ended up being absolutely worth the hype.
Reservations are essential. I recommend booking at least a couple of weeks in advance. I made mine about two months out and the only options left were seating in the attic or the wine cellar. They do have tables in the main dining room, but the attic tends to offer a bit more space. Walk-ins might be possible, but because this year was Jubilee, the lines were extremely long, so we opted for a reservation in the wine cellar. Reserve here
What to Order
The must-orders here are:
- Amatriciana (with gnocchi)
- Carbonara (with rigatoni)
I’d been told the butter and anchovy pasta was amazing, so we tried it — but honestly, it wasn’t my favorite. We also sampled their signature tiramisu and several antipasti, including head cheese, charcuterie, and anchovies.
The Verdict
The Amatriciana was one of the best (if not the best) we had in Rome — and trust me, we ate a lot of Amatriciana during this trip. The guanciale was extra crispy, and when we asked how they achieved it, they said it was a secret. The gnocchi were wonderfully pillowy and easily the best I’ve ever had. The carbonara was perfection: silky, rich, and paired with perfectly al dente rigatoni.
The anchovies were a bit pricey for what you get, so I’d probably skip those, but definitely get some antipasti like the head cheese, which was excellent. And the tiramisu? Truly the best I’ve ever had in my life.
If you only have time to reserve one restaurant in Rome, I would honestly choose this one. It’s incredibly well-rounded — phenomenal pasta, fantastic antipasti, and a dessert that absolutely delivers.
Trattoria De Cesare Al Casaletto
This might be the most beloved restaurant among actual Romans. I saw it recommended repeatedly in Italian forums from locals who said it was their favorite Roman restaurant — the place to go if you want to eat where locals eat, not where tourists swarm. And honestly, they were absolutely right.
Reservations open one week in advance on their website, and you have to be quick because they book up fast.
The one downside: this restaurant is located outside the central tourist area, more in the suburbs. You’ll most likely have to take a taxi, which can be a bit cumbersome (there are buses too, but they’re less convenient). For that reason alone, I wouldn’t call this the most practical choice if you’re short on time — but if you’re willing to make the trip, it absolutely delivers.
What We Ordered
- Bucatini Amatriciana
- Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe
- Rigatoni al Sugodella Coda alla Vaccinara
- Tonnarelli Gricia
- Fried Gnocchi with Cacio e Pepe Sauce
- Eggplant Fritters
- Calamari Croquettes
- Polpettes (boiled shredded pork, fried and topped with a bright green sauce)
- Pizza Rossa (a super crunchy tomato pie)
- Mini Dessert Sampler: panna cotta, crème caramel, tiramisu, peanut brittle, and small tart bites
The Amatriciana here was better than Roscioli’s in my opinion. The guanciale wasn’t quite as life-changing, but the sauce and the bucatini itself were far superior — rich, flavorful, and extremely satisfying.
The Cacio e Pepe was very thick and salty — which I’ve learned is actually how Romans prefer it: starchy and thick. After two bites I was pretty much done with it.
Surprisingly, I enjoyed the fried gnocchi with cacio e pepe sauce even more than the actual pasta. The gnocchi were fried so well that they stayed crispy and light and went well with the sauce.
The calamari fritti had good flavor, though it was a bit on the greasy side.
The polpettes were tasty — very traditional.
The pizza rossa is perfect if you love ultra-crispy, cracker-like pizza.
Desserts were just okay. The mini sampler was fun, but I found the pasta dishes to be the true stars of the meal.
The Gricia was also great — essentially an amatriciana without the tomato sauce — and worth trying!
The Rigatoni al Sugodella Coda alla Vaccinara was good, this one is oxtail based without the oxtail chunks. Rich and tomatoey!
This place was packed with locals. I didn’t see a single tourist. When we arrived at 7:30 p.m., it was fairly empty, but by 8 p.m. every table was filled.
Personally, this might have been my favorite meal in Rome. The pastas were phenomenal, the atmosphere was authentic, and it felt like a true Roman dining experience.
That said, because of the distance, cost, and hassle of getting there, I would still recommend Roscioli over this spot if you only have time for one reservation during your trip.
Hosteria De Pietro
Next up is Hosteria de Pietro, located right by the Spanish Steps — which, if you didn’t know, is one of the priciest areas in Rome. Naturally, this ended up being the fanciest and most expensive spot we tried during the entire trip.
What We Ordered
We started with their mortadella and prosciutto, which they actually shaved fresh in front of us using a slicing machine — honestly so fun to watch. They also brought out some Comté cheese, which was delicious, and their Roman artichokes, served with a generous drizzle of thick olive oil.
The real specialty here is their truffle pasta. Because we visited in November, we were lucky enough to be there during white truffle season — which lasts only about two months a year, and the truffles themselves expire within days. We ordered their white truffle egg pasta, and it was shaved tableside. It was not cheap — around €80, very similar to the one I’ve had at Bertie’s.
We also got:
- Polpettes (meatballs — not the boiled/shredded Roman-style polpettes)
- Black truffle ravioli
- Spaghetti vongole
The Verdict
This meal had some hits and some definite misses.
The ravioli was a skip — it came out cold in the center and just wasn’t impressive. I’d recommend choosing a different egg pasta or getting spaghetti with black truffle instead.
The vongole wasn’t good either. There were bits of grit in the dish, which made me think the clams weren’t cleaned or purged properly. A definite miss.
The artichokes, on the other hand, were great — really tender, super flavorful, and beautifully seasoned. I also really enjoyed the charcuterie and cheeses, and honestly wish I had ordered even more of those. The polpettes had good flavor too.
But the star — by far — was the white truffle pasta. It was decadent, perfectly emulsified, and the egg pasta was cooked so well. The white truffle flavor was incredible, and it absolutely justified the splurge.
This was definitely the most upscale-feeling spot we visited. We called to reserve, but when we arrived at 12 p.m., it was basically empty. You probably don’t need a reservation for lunchtime, but having one doesn’t hurt.
It might sound like there were more misses than hits, but the dishes that were good were genuinely excellent — especially the white truffle pasta. If you're looking for something fancy near the Spanish Steps, this spot delivers on the “special occasion” vibe. Just know that it’s pricey, and not every dish is a home run.
Roma Sparita
This next restaurant is probably the most famous one on the list. It’s been all over TikTok and Instagram — and you know me, I usually hate TikTok-hyped places — but the real reason I wanted to come here is because Anthony Bourdain is the one who originally put Roma Sparita on the map. That alone made it worth a visit.
Reservations open exactly 15 days in advance, and not a day earlier. You have to call, and it fills up immediately. When I called asking about the “next next week,” I forgot to specify the exact date at first, and within seconds they told me they were already fully booked. So if you want to eat here, set an alarm and book it on the dot.
I will say, I had some hesitation because of all the online hype. I’d heard that some tourists got random extra fees tacked onto their bills, so just keep an eye out when you go.
We started with their seasonal prosciutto and melon, which was light, refreshing.
The mussels, however, were a skip for me — they were tough, not very flavorful, and nowhere close to the incredible mussels I had in London.
We also ordered a round of fritti, my favorite:
- Stuffed squash blossoms — perfectly fried and really enjoyable
- Stuffed olives — delicious and definitely worth getting
We tried their pizza, but honestly, I didn’t enjoy it. The tomato sauce was extremely watery, making the whole thing feel soupy and bland. The dough beneath felt a bit raw too. It came topped with anchovies — which I normally love — but overall, I’ve had much better versions elsewhere.
For sides, we got the chicories, which are kind of like sautéed spinach. It’s a staple Roman side dish that a lot of tourists overlook, but I recommend trying it.
For mains, we ordered:
- Lamb chops — decent flavor but pretty small pieces
- Amatriciana with bucatini — surprisingly good, though not as standout as the other top spots we visited
But the dish Roma Sparita is known for — the one Anthony Bourdain loved — is their cacio e pepe served in a crispy parmesan bowl. Ours wasn’t very crispy and actually tasted a bit cold, but the pasta itself was excellent. Perfectly cooked, well-emulsified, salty but well balanced. I could easily eat this twice. This is the dish that gets my seal of approval.
I liked it so much that I ordered their carbonara right after — which I regret. The carbonara was not good. It was basically scrambled eggs and a congealed mess. Do not order this.
The Verdict
Overall, Roma Sparita is absolutely worth a visit, but expect some hits and some misses. Stick to the dishes I recommended for the best experience.
Crowd-wise, I’d say it was about half tourists and half locals. Indoors, where we sat, there were actually more locals around us, which was nice to see.
Forno Campo de' Fiori
This next spot we tried was Il Forno, a historic bakery located right in one of Rome’s oldest districts. It’s a classic Roman institution with a bakery on one side and a sandwich counter right next door. They specialize in all the traditional baked goods — pizzas, pastries, and simple, comforting Roman breads.
We stopped by on a whim for a quick lunch since we didn’t have a reservation anywhere, and it ended up being the perfect grab-and-go option. We ordered an assortment of their pizzas. Just a heads up: the slices aren’t reheated — you eat them as-is — so a few of them were a bit cold, which is pretty typical here. If you’re okay with that, the variety is great.
We also tried their mortadella sandwich, which was simple and satisfying, but the standout for me was the classic tomato pizza. It was the best slice out of everything we ordered — bright, flavorful, and exactly what you want from Roman bakery-style pizza. We also really enjoyed their Suppli which were hot and fresh.
Overall, Il Forno is a quick, easy stop — honestly, you could still pop in even if you’ve already eaten lunch. Just note that seating is extremely limited, so expect to stand while eating or nibble on your slices while walking around the piazza.
there is also a small market nearby if you're interested!
Dessert Spots
One thing we didn’t really do on this trip was hunt down all the “best gelato spots” in Rome. We didn’t make it a mission, but we still ended up walking into about five or six gelaterias just to try them out. So moving forward, the next part of this guide is going to cover a few dessert and pastry spots I genuinely recommend — including the gelato shop that ended up being my favorite out of everything we tried.
A lot of people visiting Rome focus heavily on gelato, and there’s tons of advice online about what’s “authentic.” I do want to mention something important: I was told by a lot of people to avoid gelato that’s uncovered, piled high, or stacked in those big colorful mounds. Supposedly, the best gelato is kept in those closed metal canisters (pozzetti).
But after walking all over Rome and Florence, I want to be honest — most of the gelato shops we saw had the piled-high displays. And funny enough, we even went to one “authentic” shop with the dark metal containers, and the gelato there wasn’t very good at all. So honestly… it depends.
But here are some spots we recommend!
Two Sizes
Two Sizes showed up on almost every guide I read for having some of the best tiramisu in Rome. It’s a tiny stand/shop hybrid that stays open pretty late, making it a perfect post-dinner (or honestly, anytime) dessert stop. They offer six different flavors, and naturally, we got one of everything.
My favorites were the pistachio, the classic, and surprisingly, the strawberry — it was actually my first time trying a strawberry tiramisu, and it definitely won’t be my last. They offer both a small and a large size; if you’re planning to sample multiple flavors like we did, I highly recommend sticking to the smaller ones.
When I chatted with the owner, he mentioned that he sells around a thousand tiramisus a night, which is absolutely wild to me. But honestly, after trying them, it makes sense. The line around 8 p.m. wasn’t bad at all, and service was quick. Overall, this is a super fun and delicious stop, especially if you’re staying nearby or walking off a big Roman dinner.
Frigidarium
Out of the five or six gelato shops we tried while wandering around the historic center, Frigidarium ended up being our absolute favorite. Funny enough, it was one of the places that didn’t keep their gelato in the dark metal containers — but their pistachio gelato completely won us over.
We ordered just a scoop to try, and it was hands-down the best pistachio gelato we had. Incredibly creamy, rich, and full of real pistachio flavor — nothing artificial or overly sweet. They also offer plenty of sorbets and other flavors, but the pistachio is the star here.
It’s a quick stop, super easy to walk into, and absolutely worth trying if you’re in the area.
Antico Forno Roscioli
I was on a mission to find maritozzi while in Rome — those iconic, cream-filled Roman pastries you definitely can’t find in Austin — and I also wanted to try sfoglia, the layered, scalloped puff-pastry dessert that Romans often eat for breakfast. You’ll see them all over the city, and I knew I couldn’t leave without tasting a few.
At this particular bakery, I ordered an assortment of pastries plus one of their mini cakes filled with mango, Nutella, and hazelnuts. Every single thing we tried was so good. The pastries were incredibly fresh, beautifully made, and honestly some of the best baked goods I’ve ever had. On top of that, the service was genuinely warm and friendly, which made the experience even better.
It’s an easy, delicious stop — especially because the restaurant right next door is also fantastic. Highly recommend popping in for a quick breakfast or mid-day pick-me-up.
Food Spots we tried but may skip -
Bonci
It honestly pains me to write this because when I tried Bonci in Chicago, I really liked it — and of course, it’s been featured on Chef’s Table and tons of food media. But when we stopped by Bonci Pizzarium near the Vatican, the experience just didn’t live up to the hype.
The crust was phenomenal — airy, crisp, beautifully fermented, and exactly what you’d expect from Bonci. But the toppings were surprisingly bland and underwhelming. We tried a truffle slice with scrambled eggs and shaved truffle on top, as well as a marinara slice and a couple of other options. The marinara was definitely the best of the bunch, but even then, it wasn’t memorable enough for me to recommend going out of your way. The mozzarella suppli with nduja was cold.
That said, if you do end up visiting, their panettone is unbelievable — truly the best I’ve ever had. Light, fluffy, fragrant, and perfectly balanced. I would go back just for that alone.
Overall, not worth the detour for the pizza, but absolutely worth grabbing a panettone if you’re in the area.
Seu illuminati
Another tough one to write. This was actually a reservation my husband made, and since it’s ranked as the #3 pizza spot in Rome and #6 in the world, our expectations were sky-high. Seu Pizza Illuminati offers both a tasting menu and an à la carte option, with a divide between their classic pizzas and their more experimental creations. Their whole philosophy leans into elevating pizza with bold, unconventional flavor combinations.
We ordered an assortment of their unique pizzas, including the SUPERCAPRICCIOSA, which came loaded with:
crema di olive nere, fior di latte, prosciutto cotto arrosto, carciofini arrosto, treccia di fior di latte, uovo barzotto, pomodorini semidry, crema di funghi, polvere di olive, mizuna corallo.
As you can tell, it’s a lot — and that was our main issue. Many of the pizzas felt overly complicated, almost weighed down by too many toppings and competing flavors. Out of the four pizzas we tried, we genuinely enjoyed only one: the Valeria da Nonna, which came topped with polpettes. That one actually worked beautifully.
On a positive note, the supplì here is excellent — some of the best appetizers we had in Rome. The dough base and tomato sauce were also really well executed, which makes me think that maybe the fault wasn’t the craftsmanship, but simply that the more experimental pizzas didn’t land for us.
The tiramisu, unfortunately, was another miss, and given the higher price point, I’m not sure I would return. If you do go, I’d recommend sticking to the classic pizzas. The foundation — the crust, the bake, the sauce — is solid. It was really the complex combinations that didn’t work for me.
Attractions
Sightseeing in Rome
While in Rome, there are plenty of incredible attractions worth visiting. A lot of people come to Rome specifically for the history and the sights, and while I personally came for the food, I still made time to squeeze in some major landmarks between meals. I visited during Jubilee, which meant that reservations and booking tickets well in advance were absolutely necessary. If you’re visiting during an off-season or a less crowded year, you’ll likely have an easier time — but because of the timing of my trip, I planned ahead for almost everything.
Pantheon
The Pantheon is an absolute must-visit in Rome. I highly recommend waking up early to see it — I first went around 5 a.m. while I was jet-lagged, and viewing it from the outside with no one else around was surreal. During the day, especially during Jubilee, it becomes packed, so going early truly changes the experience.
I found an official ticketing site (through a Reddit recommendation) where you can purchase timed-entry tickets directly from the museum instead of third-party vendors. Tickets were about €5 per person, and infants require a free registration. It was completely legit — we pulled the tickets up on our phones and scanned in without issues. Otherwise, you may end up standing in a very long ticket line, so booking ahead is the way to go.
The Pantheon itself is a quick visit, around 20–30 minutes, but absolutely worth it. The oculus — the large circular opening at the top — lets in natural light, and even rain, which then drains through the floor’s built-in system. It’s a simple, stunning architectural marvel and truly a must-see.
Borghese Gallery (Galleria Borghese)
Out of all the sites in Rome, this one was easily my favorite. The Borghese Gallery is housed inside the Borghese family’s mansion, and while it’s a relatively small museum, it is absolutely packed with art and history from floor to ceiling.
Getting tickets, however, is notoriously difficult. The museum only allows about 1,000 visitors per day, and official tickets sell out incredibly fast—often months in advance. Some people even line up outside hoping to snag last-minute no-show spots. I didn’t have the luxury of booking ahead, so I purchased my tickets through Viator, which ended up being a great workaround. The price was more expensive but we were able to secure tickets for four adults plus a baby (infants are free). We met the contact outside, picked up the tickets, and everything went smoothly.
Inside, the art is breathtaking. You’ll see masterpieces like The Rape of Persephone, which I’d only ever seen in textbooks, and Apollo and Daphne, the stunning sculpture capturing the moment she transforms into a tree. Every room is layered with marble statues, detailed frescoes, ornate ceilings, and richly decorated walls. It feels like every corner is its own exhibit.
Though small, the Borghese Gallery is dense with beauty and incredibly memorable. It was absolutely worth the visit. Here are the Viator tickets we purchased and here are the official website tickets.
Coliseum (Colosseo)
In my opinion, the Coliseum is what people immediately think of when they picture Rome. There are a variety of tickets available depending on what you want to see and do.
If you want to visit the underground tunnels, those tours only happen on certain days — I believe it’s just Tuesdays and Thursdays — and they sell out fast, so you’ll need to book well in advance.
For our visit, I opted for the “24-hour arena” ticket, which can be a little misleading by name. Essentially, it’s a timed-entry ticket that lets you access the arena floor — the interior of the Coliseum — through a special entrance with very few people. You’re allowed 40 minutes on the arena floor, but entry is quick and convenient. I found this ticket relatively affordable, and it’s perfect for families or anyone who just wants to experience the Coliseum without spending hours there. We also made sure to reserve a spot for our baby, even though infants are free.
Other ticket options include the standard Coliseum entry, which usually involves standing in long lines and accessing various levels, or the night tickets, available in warmer months, where the Coliseum is illuminated with lights. These tend to be hard to get, and aren’t usually available in November.
If you’re not a hardcore history buff, I’d recommend sticking with the 24-hour arena ticket. The “24 hours” part just means you can visit anytime within 24 hours of your scheduled time — though you can’t go early, you can go later. It’s a quick, hassle-free way to see one of Rome’s most iconic landmarks.
Here is where to purchase tickets
Vatican + Sistine Chapel
I made a bit of a misstep here and accidentally purchased tickets from a non-official site, which was frustrating because they were pricey. The official route is to book through the Vatican Museums’ website, and I highly recommend doing so.
We booked a walking tour, which comes with a special timed-entry line. This is a huge advantage, because if you try to buy tickets the day of your visit, you’ll face extremely long lines just to get inside Vatican City and the Sistine Chapel.
The Sistine Chapel is truly one of the most breathtaking chapels in the world. Michelangelo painted the entire ceiling and walls himself, starting as a young man and completing it in his later years — reportedly leaving one eye partially blind from the work. The tour also covers the fascinating history behind the chapel and Michelangelo’s commission.
One of my favorite parts of the tour was walking through the Gallery of Maps, a curved hallway adorned with opulent, detailed paintings on the ceiling and walls, leading up to the Sistine Chapel. It’s a visual feast and a perfect buildup before entering the chapel itself.
A few things to note: no photos are allowed inside the Sistine Chapel, and visitors are expected to remain quiet. During Jubilee, it was extremely crowded, but I still found it worth the experience. I’d recommend allocating 2–4 hours for the full visit, including walking, security checks, and exploring the museum.
We also hoped to visit St. Peter’s Basilica afterward. There is a shortcut from the Sistine Chapel to St. Peter’s, but it’s only available with certain tours or special tickets, which cost extra. We tried to walk around afterward, but the crowd of roughly a thousand people made it nearly impossible — a reminder that sometimes you just have to plan a second trip to Rome!
Tickets are here
The Mouth of Truth (Bocca della Verità)
The Mouth of Truth is a famous landmark located inside the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. It became widely popular thanks to the Audrey Hepburn movie, where a character places their hand in the mouth as part of a playful scene.
Technically, it’s free to see — the sculpture is behind bars, so you get a somewhat obstructed view and aren’t able to put your hand inside (which is what we did). Apparently, you can pay a small donation to enter the church and get the full experience, but when we visited, the line was extremely long, so it wasn’t worth it for us.
Even just seeing it from behind the barrier is fun and makes for a quick photo opportunity if you’re in the area.
Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi)
The Trevi Fountain is arguably one of the most famous landmarks in Rome — on par with the Colosseum in fame. It’s massive, ornate, and absolutely spectacular to see in person.
The fountain we see today was completed in 1762 by the architect Nicola Salvi and sculptor Pietro Bracci, although the site has been home to a fountain since Roman times. It marks the end point of the Aqua Virgo aqueduct, which was built in 19 B.C. to bring fresh water into ancient Rome — so in a sense, it’s both a functional aqueduct and a magnificent work of art. The centerpiece is Oceanus, the god of water, flanked by Tritons and horses representing the moods of the sea.
We went around 5 a.m. to enjoy an unobstructed view, and there were only about five other people there. At any other time of day, it’s packed. During Jubilee, some people even mentioned needing reservations, but honestly, the fountain is always crowded, even outside of special years. The plaza itself is usually filled with tourists, and it’s known as a hotspot for pickpocketing, so stay alert.
One thing you have to do when visiting: toss a coin over your shoulder and make a wish. According to legend, doing so ensures a return to Rome. Seeing all the coins glittering at the bottom of the fountain makes it even more magical — and apparently, thousands of euros are collected from the fountain every day and donated to charity.
Spanish Steps (Piazza di Spagna & Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti)
Another landmark we visited early — around 5 a.m. — was the Spanish Steps. At that hour, it was completely empty and surprisingly peaceful. During the daytime, however, it transforms into a bustling hub, surrounded by high-end shopping streets, tour groups, and plenty of foot traffic.
The Spanish Steps were completed in 1725 to connect the Piazza di Spagna at the base with the Trinità dei Monti Church at the top. Designed by Francesco de Sanctis, they’re considered a masterpiece of Roman Baroque architecture. At the top, you get a lovely view over the piazza below and the surrounding rooftops of Rome, which makes the climb worth it if you’re up for it.
The main activity here is, of course, climbing the steps and enjoying the view from the top. If you’re not feeling like climbing, the steps themselves are perfect for people-watching, taking photos, or just soaking in the vibrant energy of the square.
At the base, there’s also the Barcaccia Fountain, a beautiful early Baroque fountain designed by Pietro Bernini and shaped like a sinking boat. Around the plaza, you’ll find cafés, gelaterias, and luxury boutiques, making it a great spot to shop, grab a coffee, or enjoy some pastries while resting your feet. During certain seasons, the steps are decorated with flowers, which makes for a perfect photo opportunity.
Overall, the Spanish Steps are a must-visit whether you want to climb, shop, or just enjoy the iconic Roman atmosphere.
Piazza Novana
We stayed right next to Piazza Navona, and it quickly became one of my favorite spots to stroll through. This iconic Roman square is built on the site of the ancient Stadium of Domitian, which dates back to the 1st century AD. You can still see the elongated, oval shape of the original stadium reflected in the layout of the plaza today.
Piazza Navona is famous for its Baroque architecture and fountains, including the stunning Fountain of the Four Rivers by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, which represents the four major rivers of the known continents at the time: the Nile, the Danube, the Ganges, and the Rio de la Plata. There’s also the Fountain of Neptune and the Fountain of the Moor, each with their own unique sculptures and histories.
During the daytime, the square is lively, surrounded by restaurants, cafés, and shops, making it a great place to grab a bite, sip a coffee, or just enjoy some people-watching. Later in the evening, it’s much quieter, which makes for a lovely, calm stroll after a busy day of sightseeing.
It’s not only a beautiful plaza but also a place rich in history and art, making it a perfect stop whether you’re exploring Rome’s historic core or simply relaxing nearby. The fountains alone are worth a visit — both for their artistry and for the incredible people-watching opportunities.
Souvenir Shopping
Italian Leather & Shoes
Laudadio Shoes
If you’re looking for high-quality, authentic Italian shoes, Laudadio Shoes Roma is a great spot. I picked up a pair during my visit, and they were beautiful — plus, I got them on sale, which was a nice bonus. The shop has a wide variety of styles, so it’s perfect whether you want something classic or trendy.
Leather Craftsman
For leather goods, I recommend Leather Craftsman. A word of caution: if you GPS the location, you might accidentally end up at a knockoff souvenir shop with the same name. Look for the artisan shop just around the corner, where they’re actually crafting leather goods in the back. We picked up a wallet and a few other items, and I was really impressed with the quality and craftsmanship.
Both spots are great for souvenirs or gifts, and they give you a true taste of Italian artisan work without the mass-produced tourist markups.
